Smoky Thursday

Tsiknopempti (smoky Thursday) is a special day for Greeks. Traditionally, you can eat meat 'till you drop without guilt.

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In Smoky Thursday most tavernas are crowded and as lamb , pork, beef kebabs, steaks and chops are grilled on barbeques the smoke bilges up into the air. This smoke is called "tsikna" and "pempti" means Thursday: "tsikno-pempti".

In a bar around my neighborhood, preparations for the celebration of Tsiknopempti started early. Castro works there and tonight he's responsible for the barbeque. "I work at the same job ever since I came from Albania, 15 years ago. I'm here with my wife. Our kids are in Tyranna. They study there" he tells me. "I, myself don't think of going back. Recession surely made things tougher but I like living here. After so many years, Athens is like home to me. ".

Tsiknopempt is always right in the heart of Greek Carnival which lasts four weeks.

This custom is associated with ancient Greek and Roman Bacchic celebrations that managed to survive even after the triumph of Christianity.It seems that this smoky smell was supposed to attract divine protection and sent away evil spirits. The feast represented the way community wanted their year to be: rich in food.

Today,however, as eating and religious habits changed , for many people Tsiknopempti is just a celebration of cholesterol. For others though it's chance to eat. Hundreds of people lined up earlier to get a plate of food offered by the butchers of central meat market.

2.5 tons of meat finished in three hours. According to the butchers there's never been a Tsiknopempti before with so many people lining up for food.