The Greek success story: shortcuts #3

Hope can't save Greece

During the last couple of weeks I often have this funny feeling that I live in another country and all my worries and fears are makings of my mind.

The news about the future of greek economy sound so good lately and the government sounds so proud and optimistic that's almost scary.

In real life, layoffs and unemployment are still in high levels while poor pensioners and patients with no medicine lose their hope day by day. Not to mention the little students that fade out of hunger at school, the increasing numbers of the homeless and the drug addicts.

Under the current circumstances optimism sounds as surreal as the recent predictions of foreign rating agencies that foresee good prospects for Greece.

It's the sixth year of the economic crisis and there's still no sign of neither the promised development nor the expected social explosion.

The anger of the first years is replaced by passivity and the loud voices by silence that's only broken by the same whisper every year before summer "wait and see what's going to happen by September".

The "by September" expected social explosion starts reminding of the "by Monday" diet that was never started.
The attitude towards the situation is mostly like "take what you want and just leave" but no matter what we give they are not leaving. They are here to stay and only hope can't save Greece.

Anna Wich: with love from Germany

The truth is that I had never heard of Anna Wich before last evening but thanks to my friend Esther I got to know this great photographer's work that was recently exhibited at the Goethe Institute.

Her images are clear and totally honest with intensive lines and forms, illustrating the unseen -to the common eye - magic of Athens daily life.

Anna Wich visited Greece in 1975, a little after the fall of the military junta and before the beginning of the abrupt modernization that followed. It's a short mid-time that Greece tries to balance between the old and the new.

As everyone was leaving the past behind, looking to the future , Anna Wich turned her lens onto this time being focusing on neglected faces, places, spaces that probably no one else cared about.

" Artists should not be after the success" she used say. "Photography has to set reality and people free".

Anna Wich was German. She was born in 1949 and grew up in Frankfurt. She then moved to Paris and finally chose to live in Athens where she worked as a photographer for both magazines and the greek film industry and also as a monteur.

Anna Wich died from cancer in 1998.

Lacandona

While Nassia, Dimitra, Niovi and Eleni were still talking about their plans to add some new products to the store, I took my time looking around their tiny deli-cafe.

"Lacandona" is located close to Syntagma, on the pedestrian precinct of Ippitou street.

Although it is a small space, big ideas are hosted here.

Actually, "Lacandona" supports solidarity trade in cooperation with a network of organizations in Greece and other countries.

All products served and sold come straight from small producers and cooperatives. In this way not only prices are kept at a low level but human rights are supported too. "Lacandona" would never sell products made by child labor or industries that violate labor rights and harm the environment.

On the shelves of the store one can find all different types of Greek handmade pasta, pure olives and olive oil, spices from Sri Lanka and Papua Nea Guinea, organic cocoa- chocolate from Bolivia and Paraguay, green tea from China and India, coffee from Tanzania and the Zapatistas community.

The style of "Lacandona" faithfully represents the style and spirit of the owners and the age as well.

In Athens, less is more now days. If, for example, once girls were struggling to buy a Louis Vuitton handbag, now, due to the fear of bag-snatchers, one thinks twice before holding it.

But none of four owning the place is of that kind. In contrast, I have the feeling that they fit better in the new reality. " We all believe in solidarity. People need to help each other. Solutions need to be collective. All together we can achieve more than each one by himself" says Eleni.

She and Nassia were met a few years ago while working in an non profit organization promoting solidarity trade.

" Even in the thought that "Lacandona" is almost two years old I feel happy. I see so many stores closed or closing and it breaks my heart" tells me Nassia. " It is so difficult for us too but at least we are still open".

"There are people coming just to support us. They even tell us that they'd like to buy more than a cup of coffee but can't afford it."

" I believe that financial crisis is not a punishment but a good lesson for all of us. We've got to think more carefully of what we vote for. I'm afraid that the worse is yet to come but after that it's going to get better. At least I hope so".

"The idea about opening a place like "Lacandona" came long before recession" explains to me Dimitra.

"I was totally aware of the situation when I decided to take the risk but I think that in hard times, resistance is the only way. Economic recession can't stop us from living, dreaming and fighting for our goals"!

During the first three months of 2012 , 10.315 businesses closed in Greece while only 8.361 opened. The size of the damage caused by recession in the Greek market is even more visible in comparison to the years before. In 2009 , 53.819 businesses closed and 61.345 opened.

The Greek Success Story: shortcuts #2

"Please, I'm hungry"

"I'm hungry"

The laterna player

"Greece belongs to the Greeks" was the first thing Nikos told me when I asked him about his view on the current situation in Greece.

It was about two thirty after noon when I met him on the Gotzia Square. He was coming from Monastiraki playing his laterna all way long under 35 degrees of Celsius. He was sunburned and sweaty.

"I used to say that it gets worse every year and now I say it's getting worse from day to day.

I don't know what is going to happen but that's not going to last long.

Greece will finally collapse. That's the plan and that's what's all about. They want to buy the country for no money. They'll make us sell everything. Don't you get it?" he asks me.

Nikos plays the laterna on the streets of Athens since he was 18 years old.

He plays the very same laterna, his father did back in the 1950s. At that time the sound of laterna was still heard all over the town.

Laterna is a variant of the barrel piano. Although it is not a Greek musical instrument, as it is widely believed ,laterna is deeply connected to the old Athens.
It became popular in the latest decades of the 19th century and for many decades, it was nearly the only music heard in most poor neighborhoods .

Today, there are less than five people playing the laterna on the streets of Athens.

The young and the crisis

I was walking on the pedestrian precinct of Massalias Street when...

passing by the Athens University School of Law, I met Paris and Nicky. They're both Law students and today is one more hard day of the spring semester exams.

"That was the second year in University" says Paris. " Until my graduation Greece will either totally collapse or do better. I want to be optimistic but I'm already thinking about working abroad. It's a difficult decision but considering to the current situation I think it's a monodrome".

Nicky is more optimistic. She's glad that, at least, 'till now Athens University is well-organized especially, as she explains, in comparison to other Universities where students have to buy themselves even the paper-sheets. "It is heard that in 2014 we're going to have to pay for the books. That worries me but I'm still optimistic. I don't think about working in another country although I don't know anyone who could get me a job in Athens. I'm a believer though and I think that all it takes is patience and hard work and strong will" says Nicky.

Ileana is another student I talked with today. She is 20 years old and studies Computer Science and Telecommunications in the University of Athens.

" I definitely don't want to leave Greece. I want to live and work here but if I don't find a job I will have to. What else can I do? I think working abroad is something all young people think about now days".

Economic crisis has changed everything. I don't pay for my living yet, my parents do but it's difficult for them too. I choose to do things that I don't have to pay for" she says.

" I'm an optimist though. I believe that by the time I graduate everything's going to be fine again. Don't you think so? "

What I think so is so distant from what I hope so. By now thousands Greek scientists live and work abroad while more than 60% of Greek young people think seriously about finding a job in another country.

The Runner

When "The Runner" first stood in Athens, in 1994, lots of people were shocked. That "thing" - as many used to call the sculpture of Costas Varotsos- had nothing to do with what was already known and Greeks were not that open to new ideas yet.

In fact "The Runner" is the first work of contemporary art that was ever introduced in town and it was commissioned by the City of Athens. It is made of glass stack on iron and by that time it was the tallest sculpture made of glass in the whole world. Actually, it is 12 meters tall and it demonstrates the relation between man and the contemporary city.

Earlier I passed in front of it. Though I've always liked it, lately I appreciate it even more. To me, it represents both the speed with which everything changes and moves on and the passage from one time to another as well.

By the time it was built, Greece was so different. It is indicative that, according to a research run by the "Observatory for the Protection of Human Rights Defenders", in 1997, the 81% of Athens' citizens believed that without the Greek Orthodox Church, Greeks could not possibly have any future as a nation.

The transition of the traditional, introverted Greek society to an open, multi-culti one, happened rapidly. In a research of 2006, the 65% of Greeks advocated the total and official separation of State and Church. As globalization extended, the whole Greek way of thinking and living changed.

Now days, Greece is going through one more phase of transition. Only this time, it's more difficult and less glamorous. No one knows where we are heading to. "The Runner" though is still there constantly reminding that times not only change but can change for better too. Today, he's considered as one of the most important pieces of modern art in Greece.

Goodbye old neighborhood x

This is my last day at the apartment I've been living for the last three years. Tomorrow morning the transporters will move my stuff to a much smaller flat I rented in order to reduce my cost of living.

My balcony is on a very busy street and I'm not going to miss the view that much. In contrast, I'll miss Kostas who - no matter if it's cold or hot, rainy or snowy, stands behind his bench selling flowers from early in the morning 'till late in the evening every single day.

But who buys flowers now days in Athens? "Almost no one" he says. " It's the hardest time ever. I can't even pay my rent. How am I supposed to live my family? I wish I had the money to go back to my father's village and grow the land".

Kostas is a hard-working man and father of a 14-year-old boy. Last year his son didn't want to go back to school because his clothes were old and worn. He feels embarrassed for not being able to do much for his child.

" It has never been easy but the last couple of years is a nightmare" he says.
"Last year we moved into a smaller basement apartment and still we can hardly make it. Look around! There's no people on the streets anymore. To whom am I supposed to sell flowers?".

"To me! I'll keep on buying flowers from you" I promised him.

The truth is that I'm not going far but just on the other side of Kolonaki which - to be honest- I like much better. I found a small but very cute flat with big balcony and affordable rent and I know everything's going to be fine.

Earlier I said goodbye to Julia , too. She's my next-door neighbor and I absolutely love this woman. Julia is in her late 80s but people like her don't know what time is. "I know how old I am but I feel young" she always tells me.

Julia studied logotherapy in Germany, moved to Paris with her husband and two kinds and then to Athens where she's been living in the same flat since 1953. If you're in Kolonaki it's very possible to meet her since she loves walking around. She also loves poetry and on the 12th of June she'll present her new personal poetic collection.

Athens Delicious!

While many things collapse in Athens , some others still stand up to the financial crisis, constantly reminding us that life can always be delicious!

The "Aegean" pastry shop stands in the heart of Athens, close to Omonia square, since 1926. It is located in the basement of an 1890's building on Panepistimiou street and it's very well-known for its loukoumades.

Despite the time passed, in this pastry shop nothing's changed in the good old family recipe passed from generation to generation .

Loukoumades are Greek- style doughnuts and have a very long history that goes back to ancient Greece. At that time loukoumades were offered to the winners of Olympic Games during a glamorous ceremony.

Today, people from all over the world visit the "Aegean" pastry shop just to take a bite of this little-big-pleasure of life in Athens.

Loukoumades are made using first flour and salt. The mixture is then shaped and put in warm water 'till it gets double-sized. It is then ready to be fried in very hot oil.

As soon as they are ready they get this beautiful golden appearance.

Now, they can be dressed with sugar, cheese or chocolate.

Debby and Henry tried the traditional Greek loukoumades which are dressed with honey, nuts and cinnamon. "It was delicious! I've never tried it before. We wanted to try real Greek food in a local Greek place" Debby told me.

They both come from California, USA and of course they've heard about the Greek economic recession.

"It was on the news but I have no idea what's going on. I wouldn't know if I hadn't heard before about it. We've been having so much fun in Athens. It's so nice" said Henry before he took another bite of his loukouma.

But I guess it's not always what it seems.

"We face so many difficulties. Strikes, demonstrations, violent rioting make each day even harder. People come, take a smell and go or we see four-five people sharing just one plate of loukoumades" says to me George Fillas , the young owner of the "Aegean" pastry shop.

George studied Economics and Business Administration in the Economic University of Athens. He took over the family business after graduating a few years ago. "I never thought to do something else. I remember being here as long as I remember myself. I'm the third generation of the family business. I can't even imagine my life without the "Aegean".

I left having the taste of honey and a big smile on my lips. Though George would never tell me the mystic recipe of his loukoumades, he had just revealed half of it. In this part all it needs is love!

The "crystal" side of Athens

The appointment is always there at noon. Everyday at the same time people coming from all different directions walk fast to the entrance of the historical building of the University of Athens.

Of course they are not standing on line in order to attend some scientific presentation or academic event .

The University was built in mid-1800s and stands right in the heart of the city. Actually,it constitutes one of three parts in an "architectural trilogy" consisting by the National Library and the Academy.

Nonetheless, since last year it has turned into the everyday meeting point of drug dealers and junkies.

The drug trade takes place just in front of the eyes of people passing by.

After the deal is done, some just can't wait. They go get fixed right away, hiding behind bushes while others don't even care to hide.

According to the latest research, in 2010, 40.000 people used toxic substances in Greece. More than half of them used heroin. Today, although there are not official numbers yet, it is estimated that drug addicts have increased dramatically. During the last couple of years, 39 new synthetic drugs hit the market. By now, 7 in 10 drug addicts use crystal. At the same time, due to the insufficient policy implemented, the percentage of HIV-positive people among intravenous drug users raised by 1500%.